Barnstaple to Bideford

October 4, 2023, from the itinerary: This leg of the SW Coast Path starts by crossing the River Taw over the historic stone Long Bridge of Barnstaple.

Follow the Tarka Trail the entire way to Bideford. Highlights include:

• Fremington Quay with an award winning café housed in a renovated railway station overlooking the estuary (see below). There is also a lookout tower, which provides visitors with binoculars and information about the local birdlife.

• RSPB Isley Marsh Nature Reserve - Lower Yelland. Made up of saltmarsh and intertidal mudflats, it is an important retreat for feeding and resting birds, especially wintering flocks of ducks.

• Arriving at the village of Instow which has numerous listed buildings, including a preserved level crossing and the UK’s first Grade 2 listed signal box, complete with original levers

• The preserved station and signal box at East-the-Water, which includes The Railway Carriage Visitor Centre and a restaurant in a restored carriage.

• Crossing Bideford’s historic Grade 1 listed Long Bridge over the River Torridge. It has 24 spans and all are different.

Stay at the Corner Round House B and B

Expected activity: 10.2 miles and flat

Actual activity: 11 miles, flat and paved

Weather:

I was slow starting because I had no demands on my time and I had a bad night, reacting to my flu and covid boosters which were only 1 day after my Hep B booster. I may want to rethink that in the future.

A bit of history about Barnstaple: Barnstaple is one of the UK’s oldest boroughs as well as being one of the largest towns in North Devon. It is home to a number of the well-known historic markets. It was chartered c. 930, was walled in the early 12th century and incorporated in 1557. Barnstaple imported wool from Ireland, which, together with local wool, was made into cloth. Silting of the estuary led to the decline of the port, but the town revived in the railway age.

The River Taw runs through Barnstaple - I didn’t cross the bridge referred to above today, but did yesterday and got the sunset. As I walked back from dinner last night I went by the Durka which is where I ate last time. Lush was a million times better

Breakfast was Eggs Royale - check out the color of those yolks. They have a buni approved cream pitcher. I got an influencer shot with Jane. I had forgotten she and Ivan (owners) used to live in Liphook - small world.

She recommended the cakes at Fremington Quay, only a few miles down on the Tarka Trail. I probably got there around 10:30, but had to try a slice of lemon cake with some tea. The view was quite nice too.

I’m a bit ahead of myself. The Tarka Trail had a lot of traffic on it, mostly bicycle, but it was a nice walk.

I found a bunny in with the sheep just after the start

The blackberries were ripening and I saw some pretty flowers and denizens of the trail along the way

The estuary is tidal and I was walking during low tide, so the boats were sitting on the bottom and it was very muddy, not very appealing.

I finally got some use out of Lisa’s gift of chapstick - and a nice one it is too!

There were some interesting things along the way, like some standing stone row which is now submerged. A cairn

A lime kiln, no longer in use

After about 5 miles I got to Instow where Jane recommended - John’s Deli. I had a quiche and was shocked when I got a bill for £40 - they had the wrong food on my bill. The quiche was ok, but rather cold and I had a bit of a stomach upset afterwards. Not the best choice….

The last 3.5 miles took me by the old railroad and signal box and the old railway station

It was about 4 miles left and some “Trail-side art “

And under the modern car bridge until I finally got to the old long bridge where the spans are not uniform and into Bideford.

Bideford felt a bit run down. The day felt about 3 miles too long. The paved flat surface made my feet hurt. The end was rather boring - how long can you look at an estuary….

I made it to the B and B which was a bit underwhelming after No 22, but it was clean and I got a 25% discount since I was spending several nights. Steve, the owner, also offered to pick me up from Hartland Quay (day 4) and bring me back to Bideford so my journey back to the train (again out of Barnstaple) will be easier on Day 5. Bruno was happy cause he got his own bed.

I shelped a bottle of champagne for him and Mel (wife) as a thank you. I carried all 11 miles. My pack felt incredibly heavy (heavier than I would have expected). Once I got in my room, I took a shower and got into bed at about 6:30. I was still feeling the effects of the shots and slept until 8:30 the next morning.