March 7, 2023 from the itinerary:
Today is described as "expert", "challenging", "moderate to strenuous"- honestly it didn't seem that bad (thanks to training by Lisa). This leg is the start of a new itinerary map.
Pick up the trail at Portwrinkle and find the walls of the 17th-century pilchard fishing cellars still standing above Portwrinkle harbour. Follow the coast path to Looe and take the ferry if it's working between West and East Looe. Then on to Porthallow and stay at the Talland Bay Hotel.
Distance covered: about 12.5 miles. Elevation change: 2499 feet. Weather: rain was forecast, but the day started out with glorious sunshine and ended overcast.
Given the long mileage today I started early, about 8am, and didn't have breakfast.
The sun is brilliant as I walk to Portwrinkle to take up the path and see the old fishing cellers. The only think I see is a holiday let called "the fish cellers" that appears to be made from old stone. Disappointing. That said I did see a phone box with an public phone in it- I saw 2 today, but only got this one on film
The end of the road led to the first of many steep uphill walk. This uphill portion continues to go up to the third highest hill of the day and Britain Point. I see a navy ship which is following me from Rame Point yesterday. I can see Rame Point one way and today's path in front of me
the next portion of the trail is along the Battern Cliffs and ends at Downderry. There is a big sea stack where sea birds can be seen, but they were hidden by the brush along the path as I walked by, so I missed seeing them close up. Along the way I could see a fishing boat, complete with circling seagulls.
And at the top I can see the weather coming in
After descending to Downderry the path is on the road through Seaton and to the beach. It is indeed a lucky day when I get to a coffee shop just as the rain starts. It is another opportunity for a slice of lemon cake and a latte.
After this nice break the rain has stopped and I begin my two biggest hills of the day and continue along the Cliffs to East Looe
and my Cornish Pasty (cheese and onion) at Sarah's Bakery. I also got a lemon millionaire's shortbread!
I went to the quayside to eat them and saw a seagull eyeing it. Having been a victim of rogue seagulls stealing my food from my mouth before, I am especially vigilant.
The Looe ferry wouldn't have been able to work even if it was "the season" as the tide was out, so I walked past the fish stalls to the bridge connecting East and West Looe. Then I retrace my path in the other side and back to the seafront. In the left as I leave town is Looe Island.
Passing out of the village I walked by the Looe Island and again ascend the cliffs
until coming down at Hendersick
and notice someone has decided to add Google eyes to the path signs.
There is a monkey sanctuary which I decide not to visit having just returned from Ecuador.
I saw a bunny!
I finish up my last few miles and get to my hotel The Talland Bay Hotel which is really in Porthallow.
I was upgraded to a very fancy room. I came to find out later the hot water wasn't very hot and there was no night staff to complain to:(
I went for a short walk around. The hotel theme was Alice in Winderland- a bit bizarre really. I notice I hadn't seen the ancient St Talland Church, but was able to get a photo of it from the hotel- pity I walked below it and no signs:(
Dinner was marvelous- venison and choux with honeycomb, lemon filling and cinnamon ice cream. It was like a lemon-filled cream puff.
Walks like today reminded me why I retired and the joy I get from walking in cold and windy temperatures next to the sea.
Here is my start for tomorrow
I am enjoying the pictures of the sea and countryside. The beauty and sense of enduring time is so different from what I see daily.