Per the itinerary: One of the absolute highlights of Iceland, is the amazing Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. Here, the massive glacier of Vatnajokull glacier meets with the warmer waters of the North-Atlantic ocean, breaking off icebergs the size of apartment buildings that then float gently towards the ocean.
After exploring the lagoon, don ́t miss out on visiting the black sand beach below the highway, which is littered with ice debris, making it look like a beach of diamonds. A further ten minutes west from the glacier lagoon, you find another smaller but no less beautiful glacier lagoon called Fjallsarlon.
Afterwards, continue to the information centre in Skaftafell, where you ́ll find extensive information about hiking trails and conditions of trails in the area. If conditions are favourable, I would recommend taking the 2- hour return hike to the waterfall of Svartifoss, which makes for an impressive sight due to it ́s basalt column formation. At the small airstrip close to Skaftafell you ́ll be meeting up with your expert glacier guide who will equip you with crampons, helmets, ice axe, and take for an ice adventure on a nearby glacier. These tours are never quite the same from day to day, as the glacier is constantly moving and changing, but your guide will plot the most interesting route of the day.
Overnight in region of Skaftafell
Today was a big and good day featuring lots of ice. The weather is overcast, but there are still good views and little rain. The roads now have changed from washboard gravel to a sort of primitive blacktop. They aren't fully formally paved, but a lot better than they were. I wind through areas with the sea to my left and mountains to my right. At one point I go up a mountain and the switchbacks coming down are quite windy without barriers at the side of the road. It's as though they are paving this part of Iceland, but aren't quite done yet. Eventually I do get back to a fully paved road and I, and the car, are very happy to be over the worst driving part of the trip.
My first stop is the Vatnajokull and the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. This is quite a popular stop, as you might imagine.
There were some rather large icebergs in the lagoon, but for me the best part was the river between the lagoon and the sea where you could see some motion as the icebergs moved out.
I walked over to the black sand beach and here there were fewer people. There were some ducks with babies along the way - their bottoms must have been cold!
The differing air temperature produced some mist on the ocean and the best part here was to see the ice on the sand. Now the ice was much smaller and it looked like diamonds on black sand. It was also fun to see the larger pieces move on the water with the tide. Yes, my foot in a sandel was really cold.
I did stop at the smaller glacier lagoon called Fjallsarlon. It was beautiful as there are not too many large glaciers left in the world. I remember in the 70s helicoptering with my mother above the Alaskan glaciers that were huge and seemed not to end. Even these appear much smaller, but maybe only because I am looking with older eyes. On this lagoon you could see small zodiac boats going closer to the glacier.
Of course I had to hike to Svartifoss and I extended the hike to walk back a different way to get different views. The hike was easy and the falls were nice, but not as spectacular as others I have seen on this trip. The basalt columns were a bit nicer than earlier ones seen.
On to the Skaftafell glacier. This are of Iceland has been used for filming of various adventure movies, like the remake of Journey to the Center of the Earth. It does look mysterious, especially on an overcast day like today. At MELRAKKI ADVENTURES I met my glacier guide and tour group. Al were younger than I. We got kitted up with helmet, ice spikes, Ice ax, roping harness, and set off in a 4x4 with huge tires. Off the main road the access road was VERY rough and we drove slowly to the parking area. It was so rough the vehicle had some issues navigating over the rocks which didn't bode well for the return journey.
This was also a very popular thing to do and there were several tours already out. We had our tour at the end of the day and this was a less crowded time. Everything was either black or white. The dirt was lava remains and very black/dusty, the white was ice. We crossed the bridge and walked up and over to an area to put on our spikes. I already knew my ankle was going to be a problem as the way to the is point was steep and up a rocky path.
From the "gear on" point it was up further, this time on ice and the path was well trodden by this point - read slushy and slippery - so I wasn't looking forward to coming down and was grateful for the ice ax. We made our way up to the high point. Along the way we found moss balls called glacier mice.
The guide was very accommodating and I got some good shots of me "styling" on the glacier
Views weren't much as it was very overcast, but even here you could see how the glacier had deteriorated. There were places where it was just gone. We did drink from a glacier stream and walk through some cravasses. The guide had to give me a hand as we went down. I have to say I was glad to get the ice spikes off and get into the return vehicle. Happily this was a more substantial bus.
The sun was setting by the time I got to the Hotel Skaftafell and I was glad to get there after a long day, to have a local beer (becoming a habit) and to rest my ankle.
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