Dolphins!

20 January 2024, from the itinerary: Combe Martin to Woolacombe. Rated Challenging: moderate to strenuous. This is a truly spectacularly wild and beautiful section of the South West Coast Path, which includes some easy cliff paths across windswept farmland around Ilfracombe and Woolacombe and some more strenuous ascents, especially between Lee Bay and Morte Point. The area around Morte is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its beautiful maritime heathland and grasses, however its contrastingly vicious rock formations has led to a local saying that Morte is ‘the place which heaven made last and the devil will take first'. Distance 13.9

I split this leg into 2 days and today I went from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe. It was supposed to be 5.5 miles, but was 9.3 with elevation gains of 1900 feet... Weather was supposed to be good until noon when the front was due, but I was lucky that the rain held off until evening.

Breakfast was a modified vegetarian English breakfast with wonderful real meat sausages.

The route I took was from AllTrails and it added a few miles to the day. I went away from the trail and into the hills before coming down to the seaside. I walked 2 miles before gaining the SWCP. It was worth the detour for the view from the hills.

It is quite a contrast to Ilfracombe in August, the last time I was here. Everything is shut and empty.

Here is the B and B I used in August.

This was a lovely day for me and I think it is the best time to do the trail because there were very few people. The temperature was moderate with a strong breeze. Here are some of the path signs which seemed to disappear in Ilfracombe....

I could see Wales, although not as well as yesterday.

There were some interesting and beautiful views today. Many of the coves along the way were used from smuggling.

I was lucky I did the hike when the tide was out, as part of the path went through the Watermouth Harbor... literally. There was an alternative I could have taken, but that involved walking along a busy road.

Thankfully the Watermouth Castle Family Themepark was closed for the season.

The trial for Operation Pluto was attempted between Watermouth Harbor and Swansea (30 miles). Operation Pluto occurred during WW2 when the British tried to bring an oil pipeline under the channel in order to provide oil for the D Day invasion equipment on the Normandy beaches. The operation was successful and pumped over 172 gallons of fuel over to France.

As I came up one rise I noticed some really big sheep until I got close enough to realize they were lamas....

At the top of one rise I found some other hikers who were watching a pod of harbor dolphins. It is rather unusual to see them, and to see them so close to land. I tried to get a photo, but they are still hard to see.

Here is the first view of Ilfracombe and the last steep hill before arriving.

Some information about Ilfracombe: it is mentioned in the Doomsday Book of 1086 as Alfriencoma, or Alfred's combe. The Doomsday Book was a survey commissioned by William the Conquerer for tax purposes. It was only later called the Doomsday Book because it was unalterable. Ilfracombe was a fishing village with a safe natural harbor. It turned into a naval port and fashionable Victorian seaside resort. In 1874 a major railway line was built to help ferry people to the resort. It is still the largest settlement on the North Devon coast.

As I got ready to attempt the semi-final hill, I ran into a bunch of sea swimmers and decided I would rather hike in the wind and rain than swim in the cold water.

The hill itself was a bit of a sludge, but coming down the other side was a nice downhill with a full view of the city. Some person decided to put a weird sculpture of a pregnant woman at the entrance to the harbor which I think displays questionable judgement.

On the way down was a turn off to see the remains of The Hillsborough Hill Fort an Iron Age fort which was 2500 years old. The foundations are still visible.

The final hill was Capstone Hill which had some more nice views.

Here are some views of Ilfracombe. It seems to be mostly inbred...

The Sherborne Lodge was another underwhelming accommodation. Can't imagine what breakfast will be like. At least they had a bunny doorstop!

Devon is known for cream tea, so was excited about having one as hadn't eaten since breakfast. Everything was closed for winter. I finally found a candy shop that was open, so bought some Devon fudge and she recommended a nearby pub that did a cream tea. Really disappointing, but I was able to sit by the fireplace and it was warm.

Stopped by Lidl to pick up my gourmet room service dinner.

Had a wonderful shower and an early night.