Ghandruk to Chhomrong

From the itinerary: 2nd March,2024 (Day 4) – Ghandruk/ Chhomrong

(2170m/7120ft) 5 - 6 hours hike

At this juncture, we climb up for around an hour up to Kimrungdanda.

On the way, we can enjoy great views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli,

Fishtail Mountain (Machhapuchhre) and Ganggapurna. Next a steep

descent takes us to the Kimrong Khola. After another steep ascent

from Kimrong Khola to Chere Danda, we descend for a while then it’s

a gentle walk to Chhomrong. Chhomrong is a beautiful village located

on the lap of the giant Annapurna massive.

Nepal seems to have it in for me and my stomach. Both times I've been here I've contracted some sort of food poisoning. I retched all night and didn't sleep at all. Thank goodness I had a private toilet. The weather prediction is rain and thunderstorms, so I faced the day with trepidation.  Breakfast was water and black tea because I couldn't face anything else. One amazing side effect of being ill all night is that the pulled muscle in my back was suddenly not an issue any more and I was able to move normally. Regarding other health issues, I notice I've developed a dry cough and it appears I have developed some sort of a sinus infection.

I forgot to say that silverware appears to be optional in Nepal. Shekkar uses his hands to eat. It takes some getting used to and I will not be trying or adopting this habit. I had to leave the breakfast area because watching people eat with their hands and the smell of the food made my stomach flip. Thank goodness for electrolytes because that was the only thing that kept me going.

There were some blossoms at the corner of the door leading into the restaurant area - nice effect

Dev and Shekker were delayed by breakfast and we left later than anticipated. We stopped almost immediately to look at the old town which was several hundred years old.

At the start of the day, the weather was good and the mountains started to show themselves- magnificent. I also include a picture hanging on the wall in the restaurant that shows what I should have seen since the view was obscured by mist and clouds.

The rhododendron trees started to bloom

From town the trail wound to a small suspension bridge where we came upon some water buffalo and a donkey train (below is a slide show)

before we started our first ascent

stopped along the way...

to the ridge where we took a longer break

and down the other side

to a river where there was a fish farm.

and across the river (Shekkar shlepping my stuff - poor guy)

Where we stopped for lunch at 11:44. I managed to get/keep some tea down, but gave up on the "toast"....

They had some very pretty chickens....

After lunch was a long slog up to another saddle where I was moving quite slowly. Dev took my pack for this portion of the walk which made me feel even worse - I've never given my pack to anyone to carry on my behalf, so I was feeling pretty bad. By the time we got to the top, we could see the rain approaching and I was shown what I thought was our next stop for the night. I thought this was all downhill, so took back my pack. The sip of sprite I had at the top was a big mistake - instead of settling my stomach, it made it worse.

The result was something to be repeated and was disappointing. The itinerary said " a gentle walk", but there were more steep uphills and the buildings weren't our stop for the night. We rounded another corner and I saw another flight of stairs and I couldn't get an answer as to how much further we were going. My stomach started to flip again and I kind of gave up. Dev took my pack again as the rain deluge started and I soldiered on - no other option. The rain turned into sleet and then pea sized hail as we got to the top of another ridge. This was the start of upper Chhomrong.

We continued another 20 long minutes to middle Chhomrong and the hotel which is when the thunder started. I was wet to the skin and grateful to be safe at the hotel and the rain continued.

I was lucky to have another en-suite bathroom for tonight, but no hot water for the shower.

Thankfully no more throwing up. Buni finally felt safe enought to comme out and say hello.

I was able to get a luke-warm shower in the central shower area, afterwhich I put on about 4 layers, including 2 down coats, and went to the central heater to dry the soaked clothing from today's hike.

We shared the heater with the two resident cats who knew a good thing when they felt it.

The only other guests were a group of young men from India who began singing around the central heater. Here's a short clip. Tomorrow they plan to go all they way to Deurali which we do in 2 days.

I had a bit of cold pasta and some tea.

My hands were incredibly cold. Looking forward to a good night's sleep and I hope my stomach will cooperate.

The actual mileage for the day was 7.45 miles with 2,799 feet elevation gain. Just a note that on the return trip we stop here again for tea and I didn't even remember being here....