August 10- the hardest part. From the itinerary: Challenging - Strenuous. An easy start on tarmac to Castle Rock. There are some challenging climbs, including reaching the summit of Great Hangman - which at 1,043 feet (318 m) is the highest point of the South West Coast Path.
An easy start on tarmac to Castle Rock turns to grassy clifftops, which then lead to the spectacular rock formations of The Valley of Rocks. This is part of R. D. Blackmore’s Lorna Doone territory and the landscape is so extraordinary that legend has explained its origin as the acts of the Devil. From here there are some challenging climbs, including reaching the highest point of the South West Coast Path, and lovely views along beautiful stretches following the edge of the land, away from civilisation.
Highlights
Rounding a corner to see Castle Rock towering above Wringcliff Bay as the Path enters the famous Valley of Rocks.
The jagged tor known as Rugged Jack. Local legend has it that some Druids were inappropriately dancing here on a Sunday and were turned to stone by the Devil.
Taking in the breathtaking views of Exmoor, the Welsh coast and Lundy from the highest point on the South West Coast Path: Great Hangman standing at 1043 feet.
The hanging oakwoods around Woody Bay, protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and home to Red Deer and a wide variety of birds.
Enjoying the many cliff top flowers, especially the abundance of bluebells, campions, violets, celandines and primroses present in the springtime.
Searching for the herd of feral goats that inhabit the cliffs.
Hollow Brook: one of the highest waterfalls in Britain which drops 200 metres to the sea.
The fantastic names of rock formations such as Rugged Jack and the Devil’s Cheesewring, home to R. D. Blackmore’s Mother Meldrum.
The sense of achievement on reaching the village of Combe Martin after the many steep ascents and descents of the day.
13.7 miles- actual mileage 15
Elevation gain 3,069
The weather was glorious! Sunny with a slight breeze on the open parts of the coast. The morning started in doubt for the day- the tape I used to hold my bandaid test ripped off a part of my skin near my ankle. It started to get quasi infected during the night. I was able to jury rig something to protect it, but I would soon know if I was going to walk or take the bus to Combe Martin.
Note to self- don't use this tape. Get more lambs wool and blister plasters. Consider different boots...
I would probably not stay at the Captains house again- 30% more expensive than other places and not reflected in what is offered. For example- no shampoo- ended up using anti-microbial hand soap. Also the butter was past its freshness date. No curtains and my window was on street level- glass curtains are fine during the day, but not at night and nothing to keep the early sun out....
It was nice to see Lynmouth in the morning- the path took me back to the river mouth and then immediately up the first steep hill of the day, along the vernacular.
There were cute little statues near the top of elves and Gnomes. I missed the first turn off and actually did more uphill than was necessary- luckily realizing it quickly.
It was just as I got back on the path that I realized I needed to either redo my bandaids or call a taxi to Combe Martin. The bandaids were only starting to slip and I needed to add another one- I was able to jury rig using different Nexus tape. I stopped and sat on the ground at this gate to fix it.
And then continued to the valley of the rocks which was quite an experience. What an interesting place - the rock pillars,
the view of the ocean and Wales, and the feral goats, that were so tame they walked right by on the trail.
After the goats the trail continued along the coast until getting to Castle Rock
And the Lee Abbey estate and grounds.
Then the path continued back in the forest and over several streams
Until getting to the next big descent and ascent.
And now I am half way and it's time for lunch on a small rock outcrop. There were a lot of flies, so the advantage of the outcrop was a lot of wind, keeping the fly problem at bay. I took off my boots and the rocks acted as natural massage balls. Somehow the new tape was keeping my bandages in place and I was able to walk without too much pain.
After lunch I continued on relatively even ground where I saw several caterpillars
And towards the final, and biggest, descent/ascent of the day - Great Hangman. Going down was harder than up - I was walking very slowly due to my feet and my toenails that were bruised the first day. It was getting quite warm, so was glad to have extra water. Going up actually didn't seen to bad.
The top had a big cairn and beautiful view. Best of all, Combe Martin was visible in the near distance.
There was a gentle downhill into the town. The last 3/4 mile seemed like 34 miles until I finally arrived at the seaside town of Combe Martin. There were some strange very tall trees on the horizon. I found the Oxford Couple at the bus stop on my way to the B&B.
Tonight was at theNewberry Beach Lodge that was rather eclectic with a full sized mermaid in the window next to mine. Yet again I forgot to take a picture of the room.
Dinner was at The Pack of Cards - a pub that is supposed to be in the shape of a pack of cards. It was built on a bet by the losing party. Anyway, I had a child's platter of pasta and a cider before returning to the hotel for an early night.
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