9 August- from the itinerary:
Challenging - Moderate with some more strenuous ascents
In this section the Coast Path, some of which is managed by the National Trust, journeys over dramatic cliff paths, along farm tracks, through fields and beautiful wooded combes with seasonal waterfalls and streams. Leave the open harbour of Porlock Weir and climb the steep slopes into Yearnor Wood.
From Culbone you can choose to follow the clifftop route with spectacular views over Exmoor and across to the Welsh coast, or take the more direct path through ancient Culbone Woods. Either way, this is a dramatic landscape which was almost certainly the inspiration for the descriptions of the wild coastal settings in Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s Kubla Khan and The Ancient Mariner, both written whilst staying on Exmoor.
Highlights:
Visiting Culbone Church of St Beuno, whose main structure dates back to the 12th century and is apparently the smallest complete parish church in England at only 35ft long.
Following the permitted path through the ancient oaks and rare whitebeams of Culbone Woods. This area was once used for burning charcoal and apparently the original burners were a colony of lepers who were forbidden from entering Porlock. Remains of their huts can still be seen in the woods.
Sisters Fountain, a small holy well or spring beneath a 19th century stone structure and cross, said to have provided Joseph of Arimathea with refreshment when on his way to Glastonbury.
Enjoying the fantastic names, such as the wooded gully of Pudleep Gurt, Goat Rock and Twitchin Combe.
For amazing panoramic views, Exmoor National Park ranger Tim Parish recommends Sugarloaf Hill, which can be reached by taking a permitted path at Guildhall Corner. Please take note of the signs here.
Crossing the stream at Coscombe which forms the county boundary between Somerset and Devon.
Sir Robert’s Chair – the rocky outcrop below Windgate Combe, popular with coastal climbers.
Distance 12.1 miles. Actual distance 14
Elevation gain: 2150
Today was a bit longer since I had to stay in Porlock and not Porlock Weir. Today looks harder than tomorrow, but isn't- just a bit more than yesterday. Weather- glorious!
Breakfast was fine- I would rate it as average. Avocado roach with a fried egg on top.
People sitting next to me were also doing the Path, but we're going a day longer than I. They looked quite fit. I guess the big thing at breakfast were the vaccination
Conspiracy theorists. Won't go into detail, but was time for me to leave. I ordered a packed lunch for the day. I never understood why they give hikers a bag of potato chips- no where to put them so they don't get crushed. I ended up looping them into one of my pole holders. On my way out of town I bought 2
bunny pins for my hat.
I took the bridle path over to Porlock Weir as the path was subject to tidal change. Lovely wooded path with views of the salt marsh and the sea.
Potluck Weir was another charming village where I ran into the Dutch people from breakfast . We saw each other several times during the day. Here are some shots of the town:
This is a picture of the public bathroom in Orlock which I awarded the price for the cleanest I have ever been in:)
The path wound around through fields and forest toward Culborn Church. There was a toll road and gate house along the way. A DHL truck tried to get through the arch and didn't have an inch in either side.
The Dutch kept turning around thinking they missed the church. When they got to me I told them it can't possibly be so small and it's right on the path. We came upon it a mile further on.
Just before arriving I was passed by a pair of hikers from Germany who were practically running along the path- not looking at anything, so they must have had a long way to go on this day.
I had a rest at the beautiful little church on a bench in its cemetery and I did my boots- I felt like I was rubbing a blister but couldn't really see anything. More in this later.
I felt like Cinderella when a very sweet little Robin hopped over to visit. It was clear he was regularly fed and today was no different as I gave him some of my walnuts.
The walk continued and I missed the turn off for the harder/longer cliff top option. I wasn't too upset 1) I didn't know that option even existed until I stopped for lunch after the paths converged and 2) 14 miles was going to be long enough. Along the way I saw a statue of the Virgin Mary in a nitch, but no fountain.
I crossed several more streams/Combes along the way
until stopping for lunch at a boulder escarpment just after half way.
I enjoyed the sun and watched a butterfly alight on my pack,
wondering why the heck it felt like there was a blister forming under the tape holding in my bandaid. While eating, I met a couple from Oxford who would leapfrog with me for the next 2 days.
Beautiful woodland which undulated up to pastureland with lovely views of the sea over to Wales. I was going to lunch at Sugarloaf but didn't find the pathway up until after lunch and it was very overgrown- something for another day. I continued on crossing several more small streams- one of which was the border into Devon.
There was one point where a big tree fell across the path and it was held up only by one branch. It was clear it had been there for some time, so I wasn't too worried
Finally I found the Sisters fountain- which was a bit disappointing as the statue wasn't there- it was just a pile of stones with a cross on top- not even much of a fountain. Joseph wasn't there either.
A bit further on was an honor stop with drinks available and some interesting carved sheep.
This was the beginning to the long final uphill to a ridge. There were low clouds and mist which affected the views, but you could see wild ponies on the ridge at the top. From the top there was a sheer drop to the ocean and rocks. One of these was St Roberts Chair which I never did see.
At the very top you saw spires coming out of the mist which lead to the Parish Church of Saint John the Evangelist Countisbury church before winding down to Lynmouth.
Lynmouth and Lynton-a.k.a. Little Switzerland-appears to have hosted famous authors and artists like C.S.Lewis, Shelley, and Wordsworth to name a few. There is a Cliff Railway vernacular linking the 2 towns- the longest and steepest water powered railway in the world. I walked up parallel to it on the next day.
My B and B, The Captains House was 30% more than my other accommodation and over rated. No soap or shampoo for the shower. No draperies that closed despite it being summer and with a big window at street level. I guess I forgot to take a picture of the room.
Biggest surprise was finding a live and active tick in underpants. I wonder where the others were that I couldn't see... I also finally took my boots off and the tape holding on my bandaid only to find the tape had pulled off about a square inch of the skin of my foot as the boot pulled on it which was really painful and oozing (no photo). At some point one has to ask if these are the right boots...The photo without the bandaid is 4 days later....
I had dinner at rock restaurant which was rather underwhelming and went to bed early. Getting ready for a really big day tomorrow
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