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The Next Leg of the SouthWest Coast Path: Barnstaple to Hartland Quay

October 3, 2024 - From the itinerary: Get your Covid and Flu seasonal booster. Take the train from Liphook to Barnstaple.

Hotel: No. 22 Bed and Breakfast


Weather: 60s and sunny


For those just joining us, I am slowly hiking the SouthWest Coast Path. My last installment was January 2024 and I’ve finally found another 7 days to fit in another section. This is a last minute trip - I had to wait for roof mortar to be repaired, scaffolding to be taken down, and a new door installation.


The below photo shows the entire path. The orange sections are already completed and the black arrows are still to be attempted.


It takes a full day to get from Liphook to the southwest of England with 2 changes: Woking and Exeter St. David’s.


Buni and I are traveling light for these 6 days. I’m not sure if he’s looking forward to the trip…It looks like he’s already had a few alcoholic drinks in anticipation

Amazingly the trains were pretty much on time. The first leg was 1 minute late due to “a passenger illness between Liss and Liphook” (Liss is the station before mind). I guess I was quite lucky because there was a points failure that must have happened just after I passed through Guildford which mucked up the train schedule a bit later.

I had about 45 minutes between trains in Woking, so got a coffee for the wait and a coffee for the next leg. The next leg was on the “longer distance” trains and Chris was able to get me a lesser price first class ticket. I found a single seat and nestled in for the 3 hour ride

Through the sunny countryside

As we get closer to Exeter St. David’s the stations get more rural. Here is a photo of the Exeter St. David’s station, as well, with a train similar to the one that will take me to Barnstaple. The final picture on the right is Barnstaple. I had to laugh when another passenger asked me if the train to Exeter St. David’s was catered. I actually knew the answer (because Chris warned me) and I said it was not - she seemed disappointed.

The hour long trip to Barnstaple had 2 rather loud children on it; unfortunately, they stayed on to Barnstaple. This line is interesting in that only about 4 stops are scheduled, all the rest (another 4) are by request. We did stop at all of them…. One of the stops was Crediton which is interesting because it’s station house is quite old (from 1850) and is one of the last examples of architecture from that period.


Finally the train chugs into Barnstaple and I walked the 7 minutes to the bed and breakfast.

This is one of my favorite bed and breakfasts - here’s the website if you want to see more https://www.barnstaplebedandbreakfast.com/ . Here is one big reason I like it:

No children and no pets. They also have an orange cat which is lovely. The owners - Jane and Ivan - used to own a bed and breakfasts in France and moved back to England several years ago. They’ve refurbished this building into 4 rooms which are furnished in “French countryside” style - each has a lovely soaking tub. Breakfasts are lovely versions of eggs Benedict.


I stayed here when I ended my last walk along “The Path” in January and got to know Jane.



Dinner was at Lush. I thought I would have a “lighter” dinner, so chose tapas and they had a special price of 3 plates for 23GBP. It was HUGE, so glad I’m walking tomorrow. Buni is looking on disapprovingly, especially because I didn’t have any beer for him. I had chilli beef, halloumi fries and brouschetta. It was really tasty.

So glad I didn’t have the Mac and cheese - the guy behind me had it and it was HUGER than mine.


Off for a soak in the tub and then a walk in the shower!

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