To the Top - Summit Day

From the itinerary: Deurali / Annapurna Base Camp (4,130m/13,545ft) Via Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3700m/12135ft) 6- 7 hours hike

Today, we start our trek to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC). We make a gentle climb through a river bed and then a steep climb over to the mountain side. There are avalanche prone areas at some point on the trail. We have to be alert to protect ourselves. The hike from Bagar to Machhapuchhre Base Camp is somewhat strenuous but the unfolding view of the majestic Machhapuchhre is certainly a rewarding experience. At this juncture, we enjoy the views of Mt. Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna I, Annapurna III, Gangapurna and, of course, the Fishtail or Machhapuchhre itself. On the way to Annapurna Base Camp from Machhapuchhre Base Camp, the vegetation disappears. We will see the snow boulders melting and forming small streams. The path widens as we enter the sanctuary. We follow a stream and then climb to a few huts alongside a moraine. There are sensational views of the near-vertical south face of Annapurna towering above the sanctuary. Annapurna Base Camp sanctuary boasts of a dynamic view without anything impeding the 360-degree panorama. After arrival at this view site, we savor the mesmerizing views of the Machhapuchhre, Annapurna south, Annapurna I, Hiunchuli and other peaks

This day was 7.56 miles, longer than I expected, probably because of the avalanche diversion. The elevation gain was 3,468. and day 3 without a shower....

The weather started out clear and crisp and deteriorated in the afternoon

We started the day by walking down to the river and had to take a diversion due to an avalanche which occurred about a month ago. Walking along the river rocks in micro-spikes wasn't so easy...

Along the way I was able to get a good shot of the Himalayan Giant Honey bees. Locals will climb up to harvest the honey, which sometimes produces a narcotic effect when eaten.

Then we crossed back over the river and started up to MBC. This part of the trip was undulating trail which slowly increased our elevation until we saw MBC in front of us. We came across a dog who decided to take a break right in the middle of the trail....

Along the way we saw the fellows from our night in Chhomrong who were singing around the stove. We had a bit of a reunion on the trail

I took a short break and made an interesting pattern in the snow. It looked a bit like a bear.

There was a bit of a false summit because lunch was further up and behind the first buildings at the base camp.

We finally made it to MBC and an early lunch at 11:30. It took us about 3.5 hours. Machhapuchhre is also a sacred mountain and can not be climbed.

Noodle soup hot water popatoms, Indian bread. I took off my fleece and tried to dry it before the next leg of the walk. There was a cute puppy at this stop

From our lunch spot, you could see people walking towards ABC

There were some beautiful views and, in the sun, I could have stayed there the rest of the day

There were a group of monks and nuns making a pilgrimage to Base Camp. We followed them up and down. On the way down one of the nuns had some issues and was taken down on donkey back

After lunch we started up the last 1500 feet which was truly the hardest.

As we continued up, the clouds closed in and the snow started before we got to the sign. We saw kites and chaff birds along the way. We also heard avalanches as we walked through this valley - one of them seemed to last for about 5 minutes.

Base Camp seemed so close, but it took forever to get there. I wasn't sure I was going to make it, but, finally we reached the sign at 14:25. Annapurna 1 and Annapurna glacier is behind the sign (so hidden by clouds)

The facilities at the top were very primitive. If you have a squeamish stomach, I recommend you skip some of the next photos. Here is the hotel and my room. There were feet of snow and a blizzard started not long after we arrived. These shots are towards Annapurna I - so no view at all.

Here is my room

The toilet facilities were awful. There was no option for a toilet bowl and one of the bathrooms someone deficated and didn't wash it down. The temperature was so cold that the toilet room floor was icy, so you had to be very careful you didn't fall on the floor. In addition, there was no flushing system, so you took practically frozen water and poured it down the drain. It smelled awful. Under the heading of "too much information", several days before I took imodium so I wouldn't have to use any facilities until I was downhill and had my own bathroom again.

The blizzard stopped and we had a break in the weather around sun down. We were finally able to see Annapurna 1 and the Annapurna glacier at the base. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy for stars or seeing any sun rise the following morning

This is the best photo I have of Annapurna 1 which is middle right. The top still has some clouds around it. Annapurna 2 is center left and visible. The Annapurna glacier is at the base of these 2 mountains and not really visible in these photos.

Here is a photo of the restaurant menu which was the same for most of the tea houses

Before dinner I was sure someone had an accident - it smelled like someone hadn't made it to the bathroom or showered in many days. It turned out the smell was a tuna and cheese pizza. It smelled so bad I had to leave the restaurant hall.

For dinner I was able to eat spaghetti with tomato sauce and cheese and an apple for desert.

There were not many westerners hiking, with most travellers of Asian descent. Overall, we met Malaysians (Buddhism), Canadians, Chinese - mainland and from Hong Kong, Americans (me), Indians, Nepalese and a few from France.

Very kind Chinese couple shared the space heater she rented amongst a few of us, so we were toasty for dinner and dried some things. I also had my electric socks on

It was a cold night and I slept in 2 down coats, a four season sleeping bag, 2 duvets, and several layers of clothing.